Review: Soil Restaurant, Athens, Greece
Food lovers, listen up: Soil has not only earned a Michelin Star but also secured a spot among the top twenty restaurants in the world in the “Global Tastemakers Awards” by Food & Wine magazine. Impressively, it’s the only Greek restaurant to make the list. Nestled in Athens’ Pangrati neighborhood, near the Panathenaic Stadium, Soil is a true arena for flavor enthusiasts.
Upon arrival at this beautifully restored neoclassical house, the door swings open in anticipation of our visit. Co-Owner Alex Mouridis warmly greets us and guides us past the open kitchen to a charming courtyard, echoing the restaurant’s commitment to sustainability. Soil also proudly holds a Michelin Green Star for its exceptional dedication to sustainable practices.
Seated comfortably, we learn about Soil’s philosophy and its focus on sustainable gastronomy. We hear about their Alepochori garden, located an hour from Athens, and even get to see a garden box featuring some ingredients for our upcoming meal.
The Food
Our culinary adventure begins with oysters served two ways—steamed and in emulsion—paired with fermented cucumber, unripe fig, and Ossetra caviar. The dish is a symphony of textures and flavors, setting the tone for what’s to come.
Next up is a trio of Greek berries and melon, accompanied by a white asparagus ice cream, fermented green asparagus, and anise hyssop oil. This course is a delightful blend of sweet, tart, creamy, and savory elements.
The third course features a fresh mix of amberjack, lovage, kiwi, green apple, and pine nuts, along with a lovely herb booklet as a keepsake. The semi-cured amberjack retains a firm texture, allowing its flavors to shine.
Following this, we enjoy semi-cured shrimp marinated with fresh herbs from Soil’s garden, complemented by orange, pecan, marigold, citrus vinaigrette, and mussel emulsion—each bite a colorful and flavorful delight.
Our fifth course features 72-days dry-aged beef in both carpaccio and tartare forms, served on a savory pancake with horseradish cream, ramsom caper, umeboshi powder, and a cherry gel. It’s a rich and mildly tangy dish.
Then comes a recently added menu item featuring tomato, lemon basil, smyrnium, and sardines, with various cherry tomatoes, watermelon, strawberries, basil, and a frozen tomato juice layer. Refreshing and juicy, it might not have been my top pick, but it’s still excellent.
My favorite dish follows: an eel mini burger made of eel liver sauté and parfait, guanciale, vadouvan myonnaise, and sorrel leaves. Deep, earthy flavors with an intense umami kick make this dish a standout.
The midpoint of our tasting features a rose scallop with leek sauté, beurre noisette foam with coffee, and crispy chicken skin. Though the coffee is subtle, the flavors come together seamlessly.
Homemade bread adorned with pumpkin and poppy seeds follows, and then a standout signature dish—a sous vide cod fillet with beurre blanc infused with mussels, kombu oil, and fresh chives, paired with a nutty Sauvignon blanc. Tender, moist, and delicately flavored, it’s a close second favorite.
Next, we savor grilled goat (or eel fillet for our pescatarian son) with fermented ramson leaves, white aspromitiko beans cream from Lemnos island, an XO sauce, and fresh greens from the garden.
For dessert, we delight in a pre-dessert of bitter orange and mandarin sorbet with mango crisp, tangerine marmalade, white chocolate crumble, and caramelized carrot slices. The main dessert features salted caramel ice cream with chocolate soil and sourdough chips on a honeycomb base. Even my wife, not usually a fan of salted caramel, finds it delightful due to its balanced flavor.
Our memorable evening ends with white chocolate macaroons, assorted chocolates, and fresh garden mulberries, blackberries, and mint.
The Chef
Chef and Co-Owner Tasos Mantis brings an innovative touch to Greek cuisine, blending tradition with modern techniques. Having worked in several Michelin-starred restaurants globally, Mantis continues to wow guests at Soil with his dedication to quality and creativity.
The Ambiance
Soil’s atmosphere is serene and sophisticated. We dined al fresco in the courtyard, a space adorned with trees and fairy lights, creating a relaxed and intimate ambiance. At night, soft lighting accentuates the wooden furnishings and stone walls, making it an inviting space. For an even more personal experience, the revamped Chef’s Table offers diners a front-row seat to watch Chef Mantis and his team in action.
The Cost
The 14-course tasting menu is priced at €105. Beverage pairings range from €75 for juice to €140 for Champagne.
The Verdict
Soil offers an extraordinary culinary journey into Greek gastronomy. In just three years, it has become a haven of refined taste and elegance, away from the hustle of Athens. It’s much more than just a meal; it’s an unforgettable experience that stays with you long after your visit.