Cookoovaya, which means “owl” in Greek, is a prominent Michelin Guide restaurant in Athens’ historical and lively Pangrati neighborhood. The restaurant’s logo features the eyes and beak of an owl, symbolizing wisdom and knowledge, a reflection of Athena, the goddess of wisdom, and the city’s namesake. This theme extends to Cookoovaya’s approach to culinary excellence, blending thoughtful and innovative cooking with Greek cultural heritage.

Upon arrival, guests are greeted in a modern reception area highlighted by an impressive floor-to-ceiling wine fridge, so tall that a ladder is required to access the top shelves. The restaurant’s menu begins with the section titled “Apheresis,” emphasizing the use of traditional techniques to enhance and highlight the natural quality and flavors of Greece’s finest ingredients. The philosophy here embraces the full use of ingredients from “nose-to-tail” and “root-to-stalk.”

During our visit, we opted for the Chef’s recommendations, accommodating a pescatarian preference, which allowed us to enjoy a variety of dishes we might not have chosen on our own. The meal started with a flavorful dorade royale carpaccio, garnished with wild fennel pollen, yuzu kosho, and lemon zest. The thin slices of the fish had a delicate sweetness with a slightly nutty taste.

We were treated to a continuous flow of delightful dishes, including local red prawns, scallops with avocado, chili, lime, and coriander, each bursting with freshness. The Greek salad, featuring softer and silkier feta from the central Peloponnese region, stood out for its exceptional ingredients. The restaurant’s twist on the traditional spanakopita, a grilled wild fennel pie (marathopita) with wild mint yogurt, was particularly memorable.

One of the standout dishes was the succulent scallops on a purée of smoked eggplant and jalapeño, which left an enduring impression. Other highlights included the octopus served on grilled bread with fava and tomatoes and tarama made with white fish roe, olive oil, and lemon juice, paired with crispy phyllo bread.

Side dishes like steamed spring beans with grated heirloom tomato, extra virgin olive oil, aged vinegar, and fresh garlic showcased the simplicity and elegance of Greek culinary techniques. The grilled Ambracian prawns, known for their high quality, were exquisitely cooked with olive oil, lemon, and oregano blossom.

For the main course, we enjoyed the day’s catch, cooked Bianco style with garlic, olive oil, and lemon, served with potatoes. The grouper was meaty, delectable, and satisfying. Although we were quite full, we couldn’t resist trying the bougatsa—a crunchy phyllo dessert with vanilla cream and cinnamon ice cream—which was theatrically crushed at the table before serving. The pear tarte tatin with butterscotch and vanilla ice cream was another dessert that delighted our taste buds.

Chef Periklis Koskinas, originally from Corfu, is well-traveled, having worked in various countries including the UK, Canaries, Venezuela, the USA, and Canada. His cooking philosophy focuses on simplicity, using seasonal and local produce, and preserving Greece’s culinary traditions. Since opening Cookoovaya in late 2014 with five other renowned Greek chefs, he has solely helmed the restaurant for the past three years, showcasing regional produce and Greek hospitality.

Cookoovaya’s atmosphere is lively yet relaxed, with well-spaced tables and a high ceiling that prevent noise from becoming overwhelming. The service is friendly and attentive. The restaurant features an open-plan kitchen where diners can observe the culinary process in action.

Appetizers range from €10 to €25, with main courses starting at €30. The restaurant offers two “Wise Tasting Menus” priced at €75 and €85 per person, and desserts are around €10.

Celebrating its tenth year, Cookoovaya remains dedicated to simplicity and wisdom in its culinary offerings, paying homage to Greek cuisine with meticulous preparation and respect for tradition. Even the plates carry the subtle branding of “270 degrees,” symbolizing the unique rotation ability of an owl’s head, emphasizing the restaurant’s thoughtful attention to detail in every aspect of the dining experience.