In-Depth Look: Dining at ATENO Cook & Deli in Athens, Greece

In-Depth Look: Dining at ATENO Cook & Deli in Athens, Greece

In the historic commercial district of Athens, ATENO Cook & Deli stands out by celebrating the best of Greek produce. It’s located in a 19th-century building on Aiolou Street, a central hub for centuries. This all-day restaurant and deli breathe new life into the area, reviving old commerce and social traditions. Dedicated to Greek cuisine, ATENO sources top-quality produce from across Greece, the result of extensive food scouting.

The menu heavily features this premium produce, which is also available for purchase in the delicatessen. From unique salumeria to the finest honey, or traditional Santorini fava, the deli offers a curated selection of products known for their distinctive flavors and nutritional value.

ATENO’s logo, a fusion of Doric columns and a fork, symbolizes its blend of tradition and modernity. It is the creation of Spyros Liakos, the owner of the acclaimed Travolta and Basegrill restaurants. Warmly welcomed, we were seated at an outdoor table, perfect for people-watching and soaking in the vibrant street life of Athens while anticipating our meal.

The food

Our meal began with a cold meat platter that looked like a tower. All meats at ATENO come from ancient Greek breeds like the black pig and are perfectly paired with fine Greek wines. A familiar dish, lentils with feta and tomato, is given a fresh twist with organic Beluga lentils, tomato paste pesto, and feta croquettes, enhanced by an orange vinaigrette. This dish highlights the importance of legumes in the Greek Mediterranean diet.

The standout dish was a novel take on the classic Greek salad, featuring a filled tomato, cucumber broth, Cretan barley rusks, and a rich feta cream, accompanied by fermented bread toasted on coal.

For our pescatarian son, we tried an innovative moussaka—shrimp-filled aubergine with onion and béchamel, topped with Parmesan crisps. The chickpeas with Bacalhau fish in a crust of lemon leaves, rosemary, and lemon cream were a highlight, blending earthy, salty, citrusy, and herbal flavors with a creamy, tangy finish.

The lamb fricassee was authentic and delicious, featuring tender lamb, seasonal greens, and a celery root cream in a sweet cream sauce. Post-dinner, Chef Nikos Karathanos visited our table, enhancing our experience. Despite not being a dessert enthusiast, I enjoyed the ekmek tsoureki topped with Madagascan vanilla cream and black cherries, served with kaimaki ice cream. The butterscotch ‘halvas’ with cinnamon ice cream and tahini halva cream froth was equally decadent.

The chef

Chef Nikos Karathanos, an Athens native and Le Monde Institute graduate, earned his first Michelin Star at just 27. He has worked alongside renowned chefs like Jérome Serres and Lefteris Lazarou. At ATENO, you can glimpse his energetic passion in the first-floor kitchen.

The ambience

ATENO Cook & Deli radiates energy, from its warm welcome to the creative dishes and bustling street outside. The lively outdoor seating merges seamlessly with the deli’s vibrant indoor space, offering a stylish yet relaxed environment. The additional indoor seating near the kitchen is ideal for less favorable weather.

The cost

ATENO offers a range of cold meats from €9 to €13 and cheeses from €6 to €12, with dips priced between €6 and €8. Vegetarian dishes range from €11 to €24, while meat dishes span from €12 to €33. Desserts are available for €9 and €10. Deli produce is also available for purchase.

The final verdict

ATENO Cook & Deli is a fusion of casual bistro charm and gourmet Greek dining. Whether for a meal, coffee, sandwich, or shopping for quality produce, ATENO meets all your needs. The finest products from all over Greece have been brought to Aiolou Street, waiting for your visit.