Fans of chef Rick Stein, seafood lovers, and those in search of the ideal beachside weekend getaway, it’s time to pack your bags. Just two and a half hours north of Sydney, on Australia’s East Coast, lies the lovely seaside destination of Port Stephens. This area boasts over 30 kilometers of white sandy beaches, pristine waters, fabulous national parks, stunning sand dunes, coastal walks, and charming towns, all wrapped in a wonderfully laid-back lifestyle. Port Stephens offers a blue water paradise with 26 magnificent beaches and a grand bay. You’ll find world-class surf breaks, scuba diving with grey nurse sharks, swimming with wild dolphins, snorkeling in quiet bays, sightseeing cruises, jet boat joy rides, and quad bike tours. Port Stephens is perfect for family fun. However, if you prefer to do absolutely nothing on holiday while enjoying it in style, then Bannisters Port Stephens is the perfect spot.
Rather than being a single town, Port Stephens is a collection of relaxed coastal neighborhoods, each with its unique charm. Some of these neighborhoods include Nelson Bay, Anna Bay, Shoal Bay, Fingal Bay, and my personal favorite, Soldiers Point—a picturesque peninsula and serene bayside hamlet on Port Stephens’ southern shores.
In 1826, a small garrison of soldiers was established at Friendship Point to capture escaped convicts. Later, the garrison was abandoned, and the area was renamed Soldiers Point. Today, it’s known as the best spot for sunsets in Port Stephens, offering stunning waterways, safe swimming beaches, and an award-winning marina that attracts yachts from around the globe.
My family holidays to Soldiers Point began when I was very young. Packed into the back of the car with my younger sister and two very hairy spaniels, the journey seemed endless, often inducing car sickness. My sister and I would fight over the armrest while our parents told us to stop bickering. Despite the discomfort, those childhood memories are precious.
Upon arrival, our irritations vanished instantly. We spent our summers in an old wooden house with a wrap-around veranda, characteristic of old Australian colonial buildings. We’d draw straws to see who’d sleep in the tiny screened-in section of the veranda, which served as an extra bedroom. The front steps of the house led straight to the beach, and we’d disappear onto the sand for hours, only returning when it got dark. Parental supervision was minimal, a stark contrast to today’s ‘helicopter parenting.’ We formed ‘gangs’ with other beach kids, hunting for shells and exploring rock pools. On Saturday afternoons, we received 20 cents to spend on sweets at the local shop, spending hours deliberating over our choices. Saturday nights featured a movie at the community center, attracting almost the whole town regardless of the film. We watched pelicans fishing, learned to fish ourselves, hand-fed colorful rainbow lorikeets, swam, built sandcastles, and enjoyed almost daily family barbecues. Inevitably, a crafty kookaburra would swoop in, making off with someone’s sausage. These were the happiest days of my childhood. But as I grew up, moved away, and started a new life overseas, those idyllic summers at Soldiers Point were left behind.
Now, 40 years later, I was returning. After living in Zambia for over 30 years, I was making a rare visit back to Australia to see my parents. Despite my limited time, I was determined to revisit the Soldiers Point of my childhood. I hopped in the car for a nostalgic drive.
The old, winding, car-sick-inducing highway was replaced by a three-lane expressway, speeding me along faster than I expected. After missing my turnoff, I spent some time navigating Newcastle’s streets before a friendly bystander helped me back on track. Arriving in Soldiers Point, I was pleased to see that while some things had changed, others remained the same. The community center still stood, though no Saturday night films were advertised. The corner store with the sweets was gone. The wharf where I learned to fish was intact, but the house with its wrap-around veranda had disappeared. However, the old Salamander motel had been transformed beyond recognition into a four-star luxury retreat for food lovers, now known as Bannisters. It captures Port Stephens’ coastal charm, embodied in a modern hotel where I would spend the weekend.
Bannisters Port Stephens opened in late 2018. It’s the second location for the Bannisters group, which started in 2002 when media entrepreneur Peter Cosgrove renovated a seventies motel in Mollymook, a town three hours south of Sydney. Bannisters by the Sea gained popularity after Rick Stein opened his first restaurant outside the UK there in 2009. Rick Stein’s Mollymook restaurant has since become a hotspot for Sydneysiders, Canberrans, and international visitors eager to enjoy fine seafood and a relaxed coastal life.
Rick Stein, who started his career in 1975 with The Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall, UK, has built a reputation on discovering and preparing the world’s best seafood. He’s written over 20 cookbooks and filmed more than 30 cookery shows, becoming one of the world’s most respected chefs. After the success at Mollymook, Rick, his wife Sarah, and Peter Cosgrove decided to expand to Bannisters Port Stephens.
Perched on a cliff, the hotel is grand yet boutique. A sparkling makeover includes floor-to-ceiling glass, white and blue color schemes, timber accents, and plenty of greenery, breathing new life into the space while maintaining its former charm. Both dogs and children are welcome, with even pet-friendly rooms available. The friendly staff makes good service feel effortless. An infinity pool overlooks the public jetty where I learned to fish, now frequented by patient fathers and excited children. The hotel features 80 rooms, including four luxury suites and a penthouse, all with water or bushland views. Dining options include the Cheeky Dog bar for pizza and sports, Julio’s Mexican Cantina for Mexican cuisine and margaritas, but the highlight is Rick Stein’s fine dining restaurant with a relaxed holiday atmosphere.
With celebrity chef Rick Stein and head chef Mitchell Turner, who found his passion for cooking early on, the restaurant’s menu showcases the region’s best seafood. What convinced Rick Stein to choose this location was the quality local seafood and the proximity to Hunter Valley wines. The menu features king prawns, sand whiting, snapper, blue trevally, and Sydney rock oysters sourced just 600 meters away.
Port Stephens is home to some of the finest seafood on Australia’s east coast. The menu reflects this, starting with fresh seafood options like grilled scallops and freshly shucked oysters. Entrée choices include sashimi of local yellowfin tuna or local lobster and mud crab linguine. For the main course, I tried the incredible Sri Lankan local swordfish curry, while my son chose a Tasmanian wagyu rump steak. Desserts are rich and decadent, with my chocolate fondant being a divine choice. Every ingredient is freshly caught or sourced and beautifully prepared, complemented by a wide-ranging wine list.
Early the next morning, the rising sun illuminated the water in the calm bay stretching towards the Yaccaba and Tomaree headlands. A pre-breakfast stroll to the wharf and along the beach was the perfect start to the day. Port Stephens is a magical coastal destination where you can disconnect, immerse yourself in natural beauty, and escape from daily life.
Sarah Kingdom
Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, Sarah Kingdom moved to Africa at 21. She’s a mountain climber and guide, travel writer, yoga teacher, trail runner, and mother of two. When she’s not climbing or traveling, she lives on a cattle ranch in central Zambia. Sarah regularly guides trips in India, Nepal, Tibet, Russia, and Ethiopia, and frequently takes climbers up Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania.